June 15, 2012 Rio Dulce Guatemala

About time for me to update the blog, right? 

About a month ago we went from a salt-water ocean boat to a fresh-water river boat.  For the summer we wanted to go somewhere relatively safe from hurricanes.  On Guatemala's Caribbean coast there is a large river called the Rio Dulce (sweet river).   About 25 miles up the river there is a large community of cruisers, marinas, ex-pats and rich Guatemalans.  High mountains and a long winding river mean that any hurricane that were to hit this area will (hopefully) dissipate before it gets to us.  Hundreds of boats show up each spring to spend the summer here.  Most people however button their boat up and go home for the summer.  It's a beautiful area, deep in the jungle with volcanic mountains all around.  Parrots fly overhead and in the morning we can hear the roaring of howler monkeys across the river.

Before we could get here though we had to cross the bar at the river entrance.  The depth at the entrance is around 5 1/2 feet at nominal tide.  We draw close to 7 feet, so we definitely can only get over at high tide.  The tides here in the Caribbean are much less than the pacific side (2 foot swings verses 20 feet), so there are only a couple of days a month that the tide is high enough that we have a chance of getting over without help.  Also the "deep" part is constantly shifting.  Locals at Livingston, the town at the entrance, make money coming out in little speed boats (pangas), "tip" the boats and pull them over the shallow spots.  We really didn't want to do that, so we planned to come over at the highest tide in May (+2 feet).   We got the latest waypoints, the time of high tide, lined the boat up, crossed our fingers and hit the bar as fast as our boat would go (which really isn't very fast).  We plowed a furrow through the mud but were able to force our way through :-).  15 boats came over the bar that morning and only four had to be tipped and dragged, not too bad.  Once in we got checked into Guatemala and headed up the river.

Our last view of the ocean for many months:

Rio Dulce, here we come:

We quickly entered the winding gorge where  Johnny Weissmuller swung from vines in the 1930's in his Tarzan movies.  I tried to capture it with the camera, but none of the pictures really showed the sheer cliffs disappearing into the jungle.

We spent the night anchored in Golfito lake then the next day pulled into our summer home at Mario's marina.

There are quite a few cruisers also spending the summer here, as well as quite a few that pulled in years ago and have never left.  There are lots of things to do; dominoes, volleyball in the afternoon, potlucks, movie nights.  Or just hang out in the very cold pool (cold is good here as it's very hot and steamy).  The local town has basic provisions so we're well set.

That's all for now.  We'll be traveling to California for a couple of weeks to see friends and family, as well as marvel at what a supermarket is.  

4/26/2012 - Roatan, Honduras Islands

We're currently on the Island of Roatan, part of Honduras.  It's been a while since our last post, internet connections have been a challenge.  Our last post was from San Andreas.  Since then we spent ten days on Providencia, had a fabulous sail to a tiny reef called the Hobbies, checked into Honduras on Guanaja, then moved to Roatan.  Here are a few highlights of the last month:

Providencia:

We went for a hike up the hill and caught this iguana admiring Sunny at anchor:

We went on a couple scuba dives with our friends, Susan & Michael on Calypso.  The first one was a "shark feeding".  One of the guides had a spear pole and caught 3-4 lion fish.  Lion fish are not native to the Caribbean and because of their fast reproduction and voracious feeding, are a major threat to the health of the reefs.  Divers are encouraged to kill lion fish and based on the sharks behavior, this is a common occurrence.  As soon as we dropped down below 60', 5-10 black tip reef sharks started following us around like puppy dogs.  The guide would hold up the speared lion fish and the sharks would circle the divers until one got up the nerve to grab the lion fish from the pole:

It was a fun experience and at no time did we feel too worried, though at times the sharks were all around and swimming through our group.

We watched the annual horse race on the beach.  This is a two horse race, one from the north end and one from the south.  The islanders spend months debating the merits of the horses and thousands of dollars worth of Colons (the local currency) is bet.  On the day of the race, hundreds show up on the beach and drink, party and argue for hours.  Then the two horses are paraded past the crowds, go to the far end then they're off!!  The horses thunder down the crowded beach, somehow avoiding killing anyone (though that's not true every year), then it's over, except for the months that will be spent arguing about the race. 

Here's a shot of the crowd that the two horses will be galloping through in about a minute:

Unfortunately, the wheelchair bound mother of the owner of the winning horse was so excited at the news that she had a stroke and died.  It put a damper on the mood, but everyone said she died happy.

We left Providencia, and several days later pulled into the island of Guanaja, Honduras. 

Here is Tom's description of our visit:

Today we went ashore to get some local currency; lempira (about 20 to the dollar). We left the boat and headed for the small island about a mile south west of our anchor spot. As we were putting along at dinghy speed a local passed us and waved in a slightly larger and much faster panga.

About a 1/4 mile further we noticed he had stopped and was looking at the prop on his outboard. It is very common for floating or semi submerged trash to tangle a prop and stop an outboard fairly quickly. As we drew nearer he motioned for us to come closer. As we did so he removed the cover from his engine and a plume of smoke escaped. Just as on land, large amounts of smoke emanating from the engine causes less than joyful thoughts. We tied his painter to our stern and started towing him to the island. As we approached the island we tried to get his attention so we could determine where he wished to go ashore. After some effort we determined that he had a house on the water front and we towed him into a dock that was really nothing more than the stilts his house was built on. We inquired as to the location of the best local market and were given directions along with the advise to hurry since they close from noon till two, it was eleven forty five.

We tied up at the public dock and walked to the bank. The streets are no more than 6 feet wide and there is no motorized traffic on the island. Everything is transported from the dock by push carts or dollies or in the case of lighter materials just carried. By the time we had our local money the stores were all closed and we had two hours to waste. We thought we might find a place for some lunch and so we took a walking tour of the island, about twenty minutes later we had covered every dead end and street on the island.

On our tour we had seen a sign for a restaurant, but the gate had been closed, not uncommon as many restaurants do not open until late in the afternoon or early evening. We found our way back and the gate was open so we looked at the menu printed on the fence outside, they advertised three kinds of chicken wings, hot dogs, hamburgers and fries. We walked up to the front of the building and looked in, there was an old woman sitting on a coach watching television.

Thinking we were clearly in the wrong place we walked back out the gate and were about to leave when another women looked out from her front yard and asked who we had lost, or a loosely translated Spanish version thereof. We told her we were looking for the restaurant to get some lunch. She informed us that the house we had just been to was a restaurant and went over and spoke to the women inside. After some consultation the she informed us that the only thing they had today was fried chicken, rice, salad, and plantains. We said that was fine and were invited into the house. We entered the house into the living room and felt a little uncomfortable as the old woman sitting on the couch was still watching TV and seemed to completely ignore us. In about 30 seconds a second woman came out from the back of the house and invited us to sit on the back porch as it would be much cooler there and less noisy as the TV was up fairly loud.

We exited the rear of the house, through the kitchen, and were seated at a small plastic table with two plastic chairs. Before we could be seated the woman had to invert one the chairs to remove a cat that was sleeping there. There were also two small dogs that while chained had free access to our location and we needed to become friends before we could be seated. A few minutes later the woman who seated us arrived with two plates of food; fried chicken and potato salad with rice and fried plantains, as an after thought she brought ketchup and a frozen bottle of orange soda.

The food was superb, the chicken tender and moist, the potato salad had a little spice and fried plantains while they look like bananas are really a perfect replacement for French fries and that's what the ketchup was for. We were there for about an hour and the entire time the dogs were quiet and did not beg, the cat came and went and the breeze felt quite comfortable in the shade. After we settled our tab and exited through the side yard we wandered off to find the local supermarket though our stomachs were not nearly as eager as they had been when we landed. Again we found, that in this part of the world you should not judge a book by the cover, if you can't find what you are looking for you should just ask and people will point you in the right direction.

After a few days, we went to the larger island of Roatan.  We decided to pull onto a dock so we pulled into Fantasy Island.  This is a fancy resort on their own island, lush beautiful grounds and lots of iguanas and monkeys.  This guy was very interested in our cat, and vice versa:

We've also gone a few wonderful dives here and fed lion fish to some big eels (but no pictures).

That's all for now.  In a couple of days we'll be moving on to the Rio Dulce, Guatemala.

3/26/2012–San Andreas Island, Columbia

We arrived in San Andres after one of the roughest passages we’ve had so far.  While the waves were not too high (5-8 feet), they were coming from every which direction.  The boat was lurching sideways, front to back, up & down.  We couldn’t anticipate which direction we would be thrown next.  And of course for the first day the wind was right on our nose so we couldn’t use the sails to try to stabilize her.  After 24 hours, the wind shifted enough that we could at least use the main to reduce the rolling so we only had to deal with the pitching.  Other than lots of bruises, wrenched muscles and a few broken parts, we made it through safely, but if all passages were like that, we probably wouldn’t go anywhere!

San Andres Island is part of Columbia, even though the Columbian mainland is over 400 miles away and the island is closer to at least four other countries.  It is a pretty island, but very busy with tourists from Columbia.  It’s like Hawaii to the U.S.,  the rich and middle class Columbians fly here to party and shop.  Plus they are rebuilding the waterfront walkway.  The anchorage is very well protected, however it’s right off the main tourist areas so all day we are serenaded by honking horns, jackhammers and the wakes from the tour boats and all night from the karaoke bars and the roving “pirate” ship with it’s mariachi band.  The weather though has been fantastic, there’s a pleasant breeze, blue skies with puffy clouds, and no rain :-)

We met up with several other cruising boats we know and have been enjoying dinners out and pot lucks aboard.  One day nine of us rented two large "golf carts" and did a tour of the island. 

We stopped at a beach side stand and had a coconut drink:

The color of the water was incredible though the land was much drier (no bugs).

We had lunch

We circumnavigated the island and after getting a little lost downtown, returned the carts.

Scooters and golf carts are the main form of transportation and the sidewalks are lined with scooters:

We're leaving this evening for an overnight passage to Isla Providencia, hopefully there will be internet there and we can check in.

Cheers,

Carolynn & Tom

3/16/2012–Bocas del Toro, Panama

Well we’re still here in Panama, waiting for mother nature to stop making such a mess of the seas for our next passage.  We have been more or less ready for over a month but the weather has not been cooperating.  It’s starting to look like there might be a window in a couple of days so we are checked out and ready to go  

While we’ve been waiting here are a few things we have been doing.  A group of us went to visit a local botanical garden.  13 years ago a couple bought 25 acres of jungle and have been slowly transforming it into a gorgeous garden.  Twice a week they open their “home” up to a guided tour around the grounds.  Lyn is self taught, very knowledgeable and passionate.  

That’s all for now, hopefully our next entry will be from San Andreas island, Columbia and we will not have any drama to report.

Carolynn & Tom

2/20/2012–Bocas del Toro anchorage

We managed to escape the seductive allures of the marina, cast off our dock lines, and make the 5 mile passage to an anchorage around the corner from town.  The idea was to fill the diesel tanks, make a big provisioning run, then head north as soon as we got a good weather window. 

Unfortunately our boat had a different idea; when we started the motor to leave the slip the water flow for the engine cooling seemed to be less than we remembered it.  During the motor over to the anchorage we confirmed that while some water was flowing, it was less than normal.  Since our next few legs will probably be pretty rough, we need to get this fixed before we can go on.  Once more, cruising is defined as trying to fix your boat in exotic ports with no tools or parts.

Tom went through the entire cooling system without finding any problems, but the amount of water flow seems to be increased (fingers crossed).   We wont really know until we get out and push the engine.

Other than moving, working on the engine, and ferrying 110 gallons of diesel over to the boat, we haven’t been doing much.  It’s great though to be able to jump over the side of the boat for a swim. 

We got to the anchorage just as Carnival was starting.  It’s been busy in town with booths set up, kids running around with squirt guns, booming music, etc.

We first saw “the devil” running around:

He was running around acting crazy, collecting money for charity.  I donated a handful of change and got my ear bit!  All in fun:

They were also spraying water on the crowd:

Notice that the tanker they are using is the one normally used to haul gasoline around.  They probably just emptied it of gas then filled with water, you see lots of things like that you would never see back home.  We didn’t see the attraction of getting drenched with water of questionable quality, but it was very popular with the kids and teens, hundreds were dancing under the spray to loud music.

2/29 Update:

Tom once more tackled the cooling water issue and found a clogged tube:

It’s a wonder we were getting any water at all through that little hole.  He cleaned out the tube, put everything back together and voila, gushing water out the exhaust!   We’re so glad that’s fixed, it would have been a major issue on our next passage.

Speaking of passages, we’re ready to go but mother nature sure isn’t ready.  For the last two weeks the wind and seas to the north of us have been very bad.  Even one of the weather forecasters called the seas “ridiculously huge”; 20 feet with a 10 second interval!  It looks like it’s not going to settle down anytime soon, but when it does, we’ll head north.

Cheers,

Carolynn & Tom

2/9/2012–Bocas del Toro

Update on the protests:  After 7 days of protests, road closures, and small scale riots, the Ngäbe Bugle Indians and the government have a tentative agreement (at least to talk) and things are slowly returning to normal.  The only real impact we had here were shortages of fruits and veggies, diesel and gas, eggs, meat, etc.  We just heard over the ‘net that the beer ferry was the first to arrive on the island (priorities :-).  All is well here, Tom spent the last few days fixing our anchor light so one more critical item off the list, hopefully we’ll be ready to leave “soon” (but not for a few weeks at least).

Cheers,

Carolynn & Tom

2/6/2012–Bocas del Toro

We’re still hanging out in Red Frog marina in Bocas del Toro, Panama. We really haven’t been doing much; a few boat chores, visits to the beach, walks around the jungle, trips into town, etc. A very lazy time for us :-)

Ginger mainly lays around, shredding any newspapers we bring home:

About a mile from the marina through the jungle is the Punta Lava beach bar, I like sitting on the second story where there is a nice breeze and view.

Views from the top. In the second picture, Tom is walking out with the boggie board (on the right):

Most of this section of Isla Bastimentos is a nature preserve and along the paths and dirt roads is beautifully maintained.

If you look very carefully in the jungle you can find the tiny poison dart red frog this area is famous for:

There was a sloth that took five days to make it from a tree on one side of the path to the other. Every day several of us would go to check out his (her?) progress. It averaged about 15 feet per day. I happened to see it just after it crossed the path:

On a more somber note, I’m not sure if news of Panama gets out to the rest of the world, but the indigenous Indians about a week ago started blocking major roads and borders to protest mining and hydroelectric projects on their lands (which is most of Panama). We were reading this morning that the riot police have forcibly cleared some of the roads with tear gas and bird shot, there was at least one death, and that protesters have burned down a large police station and taken over several towns. The local news is reporting flare-ups across the country and many people fear that this could turn into a full blown revolution.

Out in our archipelago, we’re remote enough that hopefully we wont be too affected, but we have been hearing about food and gas shortages throughout the country. We’ll try to get into town today and check out how affected little Bocas town is.

Don’t worry about us though. We have enough diesel and provisions that if it does start to look too dicey (or they run out of beer in town :-), we can leave and continue on our journey.

Cheers,

Carolynn & Tom