3/20/2011 – Bahia del Sol, El Salvador

Were in a new country! When last I updated the blog, we were in Puerto Madera resting and getting ready to check out of Mexico. The check-out process there is a little complicated; first you go to the port captain in the village, fill out lots of forms and pay a fee (credit card only). Then back in the dingy to API which is across the anchorage, climb a scary ladder, fill out more forms, pay more money (cash only). Then back to the village where you need to take a micro bus to the next town then take a taxi to the airport to immigration (more forms and money). Then walk back ¼ mile to the main road, catch another taxi back to the port captain (no more money) where all of the forms we had been accumulating were stamped and we got a fancy “zarpe” (exit paper).

There were four boats checking out at the same time so we made it a festive parade. It was a little funny seeing the panicked expressions on the officials when all nine gringos trooped into their offices but everyone was very nice. It took most of the day but we now had our official exit papers. The only thing left before we could leave was a final inspection by the Navy (looking for drugs). We wanted to leave at 6am and tried to talk them into doing the inspection the night before but the port captain said it had to be done just before we left so he would schedule the Navy for a 5am inspection (yeah right). Well 5am came and went, we called several times and kept getting “soon”. They finally came out at 9:30. Oh well, we will still have plenty of time to make the high tide.

While in Puerto Madera a gigantic cruise ship came into the little harbor, we didn’t believe it could get in here without crunching one of us anchored boats but it deftly spun around and pulled in behind the container ship in front of a big palapa.

We thought that the village would be packed with tourists but not a single shore boat from the ship came over. We felt very sorry for the beach merchants since they obviously were expecting lots of visitors; beach chairs out, streamers on the restaurants and wandering vendors. Why come to Mexico and not experience the locals?

The next passage should have been easy, and for the most part was except for about 45 minutes when we got hit by a heavy rain squall with our genoa up (head/front sail). I saw it coming but it didn’t look too bad so I just thought that the boat would get a good washing. Not only did it pour but the wind started really kicking up. At one point the boat was surfing along at well over 8 knots, very fast especially with just the single sail up. We started getting worried that we were going too fast so decided to roll the sail up, big mistake. In loosening the lines to start the furling, the sail started to flog wildly then got away from us. By the time we finally got it in, the back of the sail was shredded! In retrospect, we should have just run with the squall since while fierce, it was only a few miles wide. Oh well, I hope I’ll be able to repair it when we get to port:

The rest of the passage was smooth but still lots of shrimp boats:

And dolphins:

We got to the entrance to the waypoint at around midnight about 38 hours after leaving Mexico. Our destination; Bahia del Sol is located in the Jaltepeque estuary and the entrance is guarded by a sand bar that is only navigable at high tide and with a escort to time the wave sets. We're here as part of a rally to El Salvador, 7 weeks of activities and parties :-)

We anchored off the beach and tried to get some sleep. The next morning we were met by the pilot jet ski with Bill from Mita Kuuluu on the back (one of the rally organizers). We waited outside the entrance watching the big waves roll over the bar, it was pretty scary. Then Bill told us to go at full power, we had a few small waves roll under us but the pilot timed it perfectly!

After a quick thumbs up, Bill went out to lead our friends on SOMF in:

We’re now in the estuary motoring toward the marina:

Once tied up to the dock, Ginger our cat emerged from her hidey hole, ate a little, then crashed. It seems like she finds multi-day passages as tiring as we do:

Checking into El Salvador was very convenient and quick since they now have customs and immigration at the marina, we’re official!

The hotel where the marina is (hotel Bahia del Sol) is colorful and well maintained. For a small daily fee we get the use of the pool, facilities, and discounts at the bar and restaurant.

There’s even a pair of tame macaws that live in a big tree next to the office:

That’s enough for now, we’ll explore the surrounding area and report on our findings next blog.

Cheers,
Carolynn & Tom

3/5/2011 - Across the Tehuantepec to Puerto Madera

Well we made it to Puerto Madera (the most southern port in Mexico), tired but without any tales to tell. We crossed the Tehuantepec at the tail end of a blow and had a nice bit of motor sailing Thursday night. By Friday morning the winds had settled down to less than 10 knots and we motored the rest of the way in. While the weather was cooperating, the hundreds of shrimp boats meandering around kept us on pins and needles trying to figure out which way they were going. Each of the "shrimpers" is big enough to crush our little boat and they drag nets behind them for an unknown distance. I guess though that a cruiser doesn't make a good catch so we zigged and they zagged and we both avoided each other. We'll check out of Mexico in the next few days then another two night passage to Bahia del Sol in El Salvador, where we plan to stay for a couple of months.

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2/28/2011 – Marina Chahue in Bahia Huatulco

Since leaving La Cruz less than a month ago, we have put quite a few miles under our keel (at least for us slow pokes). We are in a little marina just to the north of the Tehuantepec Bay waiting for a weather window to cross the Bay. If you look at a map of Mexico, you’ll see a narrow section of land between the south end of the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific ocean. The winds generated in the Gulf of Mexico typically blow south and squirt out over the land into the Pacific in a narrow band right in the middle of the Tehuantepec Bay. It’s not unusual to have 60 knots (70 mph) blowing in the bay and since we don’t really want to test our storm sailing, we’ll wait for a good window. Luckily the Tehuantepec winds are predictable (we hope) so we’ll just wait for a predicted calm then motor across as quick as we can.

When last I updated the blog, we had just arrived in Zihuatenejo. Long before we even started cruising, I had heard about Zihuatenejo and about how it was this wonderful cruiser spot. I have been looking forward to visiting since we took off, but unfortunately I was very disappointed in both the bay and the town. The bay is open to the swell and thus pretty rolly. We tried repeatedly to set a stern anchor to point our bow into the swell but the holding was poor and the anchor kept popping out leaving us beam to the swell and flopping back and forth. The town was very neat and well organized, but was very touristy and didn’t feel to me like it had any character, like Disneyland does Mexico. No little tiendas with grandmothers out front gosiping, or street taco stands. Oh well, such is life.

When in Zihuatenejo we took the bus a few miles up to Ixtapa where they have a crocodile preserve. The preserve was right in town just surrounded by a fence. There were dozens of crocodiles, turtles, birds, etc.

We left Zihuatenejo and after a few short stops, arrived in Acapulco after an overnight passage. I have heard it described at night as being in a bowl full of diamonds. Unfortunately it doesn’t have very good facilities for visiting boats like ours. We could have gone into the marina for over $200 per night (ouch) but that would be too hard on our budget. There are a number of moorings and we spent a few hours trying to find someone to rent us one before giving up and going to the other side of the bay to anchor. Our friends on Rio Nimpkish just grabbed one, but for our luck whoever owned the mooring would kick us off at 3am.

We anchored just in front of hotel row. It was good holding and not too rolly so we spent a few days on the boat relaxing and watching the crowds.

All day long was a continuous stream of jet skis, paddle boards and ski boats towing parasailers. Sunny seemed to be quite an attraction and several people came out to talk to us. Meanwhile Rio Nimpkish got kicked off the mooring they were on, but found another and found the people renting them. They arranged a mooring for us so we moved into town. This got us close enough to dingy to the dock and walk over the hill to see the cliff divers! This is quite a spectacle. The divers climb up the cliff then dive off from various heights with the last one from the very top.

Here is a video of a diver from 3/4 of the way up, hope it runs from the blog:

We then did another long passage to Huatulco where we wait on the weather. Next stop will be Puerto Madera, the last port in Mexico then onto El Salvador!

Cheers,
Carolynn & Tom