12/17/09
Since last I updated this blog we went from Bahia Los Muertos to La Paz and have been in La Paz the whole time. La Paz is nicknamed one of the “fly paper” harbors since cruisers tend to sail in and get stuck. While in Spanish "La Paz" means "The Peace", Tom says that the name is really spelled “La Paws” since the city grabs onto you and sinks its claws into you. It really is a nice city that had everything we needed. We got everything fixed on the boat that was broken, met lots of new friends, renewed friendships with many cruisers we’ve met along the way, and enjoyed exploring the town.
The trip from Muertos to La Paz was tiring but uneventful. Because of fast currents in the Cerralvo channel, we wanted to time our passage so that we would ride the tide through the channel rather than fighting it the whole way. Unfortunately this meant leaving in the afternoon for a night passage. We left Muertos around 2 pm with only a light breeze (on our nose of course). Around the corner we spotted this building going up, we wondered if it’s going to be a house or a hotel, either way quite an impressive structure for way out here:
We had a quick passage, which meant we were estimated to arrive in La Paz at midnight. We don’t like entering any unfamiliar harbor in the dark so this meant we idled out in the bay until the sun came up. We pulled into Marina La Paz, right in the middle of the city.
La Paz is a very pretty city and not at all like Cabo. The bay is too shallow for big cruise ships, the sport fishing fleet hasn’t discovered the nearby banks, and there are no fancy beaches so it’s not a “touristy” town. There are no street vendors or time-share hawkers. I got so tired in Cabo of having to say “no gracias” (no thanks) every five feet as soon as we left the boat. And some of the vendors in Cabo were very aggressive, following you down the street and shouting at you if you didn’t buy their cheap trinket.
My favorite section in La Paz is the Malecon, a wide tiled, palm lined walkway along the waterfront. Every two hundred feet or so there is a wide spot featuring a bronze statue or other art. There are also sculptures scattered throughout town. Here is Tom along the Malecon:

Here’s the view looking back towards the marina:

Here are a few of my favorite sculptures (there are probably over 100 scattered around town):
Old man with a paper boat

Here is the translation for the inscription:

The old man ..... and the sea?

I have a paper boat
It’s made from a page
On which I have written my dreams
It has neither anchors, nor mooring ropes
I want to sail in it
On the seven seas; in the eighth
Where I know I will run aground in the port of my desires
... Has someone ever seen the light shining from his lighthouse?

Even the trash cans are colorful

Just around the corner from the marina is our favorite taco place. They have a grill right on the sidewalk where they grill the most wonderful arrachera (marinated flank steak).


And a full tray of all the condiments:
Sunset and sunrise from Sunny in the marina

And a buddy that visits us

The people here are wonderful, both the locals and the cruising community. There is a radio net each morning where new arrivals introduce ourselves, we can get the weather, local news and events, and ask for help troubleshooting issues or finding parts. The net was very helpful in getting our alternator(s) working. There is also a cruisers club that has a book exchange, a DVD lending library, and has free coffee each morning where cruisers gather to meet.
As much as we have enjoyed La Paz, we need to leave before we grow roots :-) Tomorrow we’re off to visit the local islands and try to find some quiet anchorages. We’ll be out of internet range for awhile so Happy Holidays to all.
-Carolynn & Tom